Curing 3D Printed Minis for Tabletop RPGs: What You Need to Know

Curing resin miniatures is crucial for creating safe, paint-ready models that withstand every tabletop session. If you’re printing fantasy minis for RPGs, skipping this step can ruin your results. Discover the correct way to cure, avoid common mistakes, and select the ideal setup for your workflow with practical guidance in this guide.

What Curing Actually Does to 3D Printed RPG Miniatures

In every great fantasy tale, the forging of the weapon is only half the battle. Just as a sword must be tempered in fire, your freshly printed miniature must be properly cured before it’s ready to take its place in the world of your campaign.

When you remove a model from your resin printer, it is not yet ready for adventure. It looks complete, yes, but it still carries the softness and danger of unprocessed magic. What lies before you is a raw artifact, full of potential but not yet hardened by time and light. This is where curing 3D printed minis becomes essential. Curing is not just a final touch. It is a vital transformation.

By exposing your miniature to ultraviolet light, you complete the process that your printer began. This step locks in the details, eliminates stickiness, and makes the figure safe to handle. Without curing, the model stays vulnerable. It may warp, remain toxic to the touch, or refuse to hold paint.

The benefits of post-print curing for RPG miniatures are many. You gain a figure that is durable, solid, safe, and ready for the table. The sword arm will not sag over time. The wings of your wyvern will not turn soft in storage. The paint will adhere as it should, allowing your creativity to shine through every layer of acrylic.

It is in curing that the raw becomes refined. The statue becomes a hero. The battlefield piece becomes terrain worthy of a campaign. Without this step, your miniatures remain locked in limbo, forever unfinished.

How to Tell If Your Mini Is Fully Cured and Safe to Paint

It is one thing to expose your model to UV light. It is another to know when the curing is truly complete. Like any seasoned Dungeon Master, you must learn to read the signs.

A miniature that is fully cured will no longer feel sticky. The surface will be dry to the touch, with a more matte appearance. Run your fingers over the surface. If it feels smooth, clean, and firm, you are likely holding a finished piece. On the other hand, if there is any tackiness or shine, the process is not yet done.

Learning how to cure 3D printed miniatures also means knowing what to avoid. Over-curing can be as harmful as under-curing. If the model is left too long under strong UV light, it may become brittle. A delicate staff might snap. A cloak might crack. The goal is not just hardness but balance.

To check the integrity of your miniature, gently bend thinner sections. Do they give a little and then return to the place? That is a good sign. If they snap, the resin has become too brittle. If they remain flexible, it is undercured.

Understanding how to tell if a miniature is fully cured is a skill you will develop with practice. Different types of resin, varying mini sizes, and lighting conditions all play a role. Be patient, and test often. Once mastered, you will be able to confidently prime and paint your models without fear of paint flaking or details dissolving.

The moment your mini is cured and ready, it shifts from object to artifact. It becomes part of your storytelling arsenal. And from that point, the adventure can truly begin.

Choosing the Right UV Curing Setup for Tabletop Models

Every smith needs a forge. Every adventurer needs a base camp. And every miniature maker needs a reliable curing setup. Choosing the right one makes all the difference between rushed work and refined craft.

For those looking to cure quickly and evenly, a dedicated curing station is the most effective tool. These enclosed machines provide full UV coverage and usually include a rotating platform. That means every part of the miniature is evenly exposed to light. A curing station for tabletop miniatures helps eliminate guesswork and reduces the chance of missed spots or overexposure.

If you are working with a limited budget or a small space, a handheld UV lamp is a viable option. It allows you to control where the light hits. However, it also means more responsibility. You will need to rotate the model by hand and watch for uneven curing. For occasional printers or hobbyists printing one mini at a time, this method can still serve well.

Many creators also experiment with DIY curing setups, especially using UV LED tape or small custom enclosures lined with reflective surfaces. These can be surprisingly effective, provided the LEDs emit light within the proper UV wavelength range (typically around 405 nm) compatible with photopolymer resin. Before relying on any non-dedicated setup, always verify that the UV light parameters match your resin’s curing requirements. Otherwise, your models may remain tacky or undercured despite extended exposure.

Then there is natural sunlight — the original UV source. If you choose this route, place your miniature in direct light and rotate it every few minutes. In the middle of a sunny day, curing may take between fifteen and thirty minutes. The drawback here is inconsistency. Clouds, shadows, and shifting angles all affect the outcome. It works, but only if you are willing to stay attentive.

When considering UV curing for tabletop models, think about your workflow. How many miniatures do you print each month? How complex are their shapes? Do they have wings, shields, tails, or layers of terrain? The more intricate the model, the more helpful a station with 360-degree rotation becomes.

This step may not seem as exciting as the moment you remove the mini from the plate. But having the right tools, or carefully built DIY alternatives, means fewer mistakes, better results, and models that stand strong in the heat of battle.

Post-Cure Finishing Tips for Terrain and Creatures

Curing is the final step in printing, but it is not the final step in the preparation process. Especially when working with terrain pieces, large monsters, or complex creatures, there is more to be done before they are truly game-ready.

Once your miniature is fully cured, inspect it for support scars or leftover marks. Use a hobby knife or fine file to remove imperfections. Sanding works best on cured resin, as it won’t smear or warp the surface. Then, give the model one final rinse in warm water to remove dust.

For terrain models, this post-cure care is especially important. Buildings must sit flat on the board. Platforms must line up with ladders or stairways. Uneven or rough bottoms can cause wobbling or poor alignment. Taking the time to prepare the model means fewer problems during gameplay.

Larger monsters with wings, horns, or extended limbs may need reinforcement. After curing, you can use green stuff or modeling putty to strengthen joints or fill gaps. This prevents cracking later, especially if the model is frequently handled or transported.

When learning how to make minis game-ready after print, you should also focus on priming. A good primer locks in cured details and prepares the surface for paint. Choose a primer that matches your planned color palette and spray evenly from all angles.

For creators using terrain pieces with interchangeable parts, such as walls or floors, test the fits after the pieces have cured. Expansion or warping can occur if the model was overexposed. A small file or hobby saw can help adjust parts for better alignment.

Whether your creation is a castle ruin or a summoned elemental, finishing touches make all the difference. Cured models are strong, but well-prepared models become part of the world. They become landmarks in your story.

How to Avoid Common Resin Curing Mistakes

In the world of curing resin minis for DnD, even experienced creators can make mistakes. But knowledge is the best defense. Avoiding a few common errors will save you time, materials, and frustration.

One mistake is curing before cleaning. Resin leaves behind a thin layer of uncured liquid on the surface. If you skip the isopropyl alcohol wash and proceed directly to UV light, the resin will cure as well. The result is a rough, chalky finish that ruins detail and makes painting difficult.

Another common mistake is over-curing delicate parts. A longsword, wand, or spider leg may look solid, but too much UV can cause it to become brittle. These parts might break the moment you begin to paint or move them. When in doubt, cure in shorter sessions and inspect between each round.

Uneven exposure is another frequent error. This happens when a miniature is cured on one side but not the other. The surface may look fine at first, but later you find it is still soft underneath. This often occurs when you do not rotate the model or place it in a curing box that does not offer full coverage.

As part of the best 3D printed RPG mini curing tips, consider placing the model on a reflective surface like aluminum foil inside the curing box. This helps bounce light into shadowed areas. It can reduce the chance of uneven curing and make your process more efficient.

Avoid placing your curing setup near heat sources or in enclosed areas without ventilation. Heat can warp resin or cause unwanted expansion. Always work in a cool, dry space with clean airflow.

Learning from these resin curing mistakes to avoid will improve your results and help you build a more reliable workflow. Fewer failed prints. Stronger models. More time to focus on painting and storytelling.

Curing Time and Best Practices for DnD-Scale Miniatures

Time is everything in curing. Too short, and the model remains soft. Too long, and the detail may become brittle. Finding the correct curing time for small resin prints is a key step in building high-quality miniatures for your party.

For models around 28 to 35 millimeters, typical of most fantasy campaigns, two to six minutes is usually enough in a curing station. But the number depends on more than just size. The color and type of resin matter. Transparent or lighter-colored resins cure faster. Darker resins often need more exposure.

For curing stations, begin with two minutes per side. Rotate often. Check the surface as you go. You can always add more time, but you cannot undo an overexposed figure.

If using a handheld lamp, double the exposure. Shine the light evenly across all angles, and check parts like the undersides of cloaks or inner shields. These are often missed and may remain soft if not properly cured.

With sunlight, be mindful of the environment. Rotate the model every five to ten minutes, and avoid leaving it out for too long. Direct sunlight may seem gentle, but over time, it can damage thin parts or alter alignment.

Adopting the best way to cure fantasy minis means paying attention to materials, timing, and positioning. There is no single recipe, but with experience, you will begin to see the signs.

And once your miniatures are cured with care, every detail will show on the battlefield. Every sword will hold its shape. Every dragon will cast its full shadow. And every player around your table will notice.