
A dwarf at human height. A dragon barely larger than a horse. If the scale feels off, the magic fades. Every printed model should belong to your world. This guide helps DMs choose the right miniature size, scale terrain that fits the map, and adjust STL files so your party never has to duck through a one-foot tavern door again.
Picture your party standing at the gates of a ruined city. The rogue inches toward a rusted door. The cleric surveys the courtyard. Now imagine the rogue towering over the entrance like a misplaced titan, or the barbarian’s axe too small to notice. It breaks immersion, and all because of one detail: scale.
When it comes to printing miniatures for your adventures, the best scale for tabletop miniatures is not just about aesthetics. It’s about consistency. Most fantasy games rely on the standard 1-inch grid, and this is where 28mm miniatures and 32mm RPG models come into play.
These two sizes dominate the realm of fantasy gaming. A mini in this scale typically represents a human character standing between 28 and 32 millimeters tall, from the foot to the eye level. It’s the difference between a human scout and a slightly more heroic-looking warrior. But the difference, small as it is, matters – especially when you line up your models on a battle map.
Matching the scale to your gaming system ensures that everything works in harmony: movement, line-of-sight, cover mechanics, and even spell areas. If your world is full of props, NPCs, and enemies printed over the course of months, settling on one consistent size saves you from the mismatch mayhem of scaling things on the fly.
Our miniatures are pre-supported for reliable printing, and you can safely scale them up or down by about 10% without losing structural integrity or detail. This makes it easier to fine-tune your models to match terrain or map grid needs.
Understanding the standard miniature size for DnD equals less time adjusting and more time storytelling.
Every Dungeon Master eventually faces the same question: Should I print in 28mm miniatures or go for 32mm RPG models?
Both are widely accepted, but they bring different things to the table. Literally.
28mm miniatures are the traditional choice. They’re leaner, slightly less detailed, and great for massive campaigns where you’re printing dozens or hundreds of characters. They look right at home in systems where realism is key and movement space is tight.
32mm RPG models, on the other hand, offer more presence. Sculpted cloaks, ornate weapons, expressive faces – they pop on the table. They’re especially useful for player characters, bosses, and named NPCs where detail helps with storytelling. Think of them as slightly exaggerated versions of 28mm figures, often with heroic proportions that bring characters to life.
Some DMs prefer to print rank-and-file enemies in 28mm and their player characters or leaders in 32mm. It works, but keep in mind that mixing the two without caution can cause immersion issues, especially in tightly scaled terrain. That’s where the RPG miniatures scale comparison becomes essential. Before you commit to printing a full set of guards, test their size next to your terrain pieces.
If you’re using pre-supported miniatures, this gives you flexibility. You can scale them up or down ~10% and still retain excellent print quality, allowing for creative combinations while avoiding terrain mismatches.
The decision isn’t just about visual appeal. It’s about how you play. Larger miniatures take up more space on the map and can obstruct other pieces. Smaller ones are easier to store and transport. But in the end, consistency always wins. Choose one and stick with it – or separate campaigns by scale.
Not all STL files are created equal. That castle gate you downloaded from one marketplace? It might have been modeled for a 35mm heroic scale. The goblin set from another source? Perhaps built at 27mm. When combining assets from different creators, mismatched scales can lead to doorways that are too narrow, barrels that look like chairs, and buildings your dwarves can barely enter.
This is why scaling STL files for RPG use is a skill every printing adventurer must master. Whether you use a resin or FDM printer, you’ll need to adjust models to fit your chosen system, especially when building an entire fantasy setting.
So, how do you figure out what size to print RPG terrain?
When printing both characters and terrain, always scale your terrain to match the minis, not the other way around. Walls, stairs, chairs, and beds should all feel like they belong to the same world. The more immersive the environment, the smoother your sessions will play.
Terrain scaling for 28mm and 32mm is about proportion, not just height. A tavern scaled for 32mm adventurers should have wider tables, deeper barrels, and broader doors.
That’s the key to making your dungeons feel real.
Changing the scale of a file can introduce unexpected problems. Shrink a model too far, and that elegant sword turns into a flimsy line. Enlarge a piece of terrain, and the stairs suddenly need supports that are hard to remove. That’s why knowing how to resize your STL for campaign use matters more than people think.
When rescaling STL files, always maintain uniform scaling across all three axes. Uneven scaling can distort proportions and render models inaccurate. If you’re printing buildings with slot-together parts or minis with custom bases, mismatched scale will throw off the alignment and fitting.
If your models are modular, test-fit parts digitally before printing. For miniatures with intricate details – like facial features or chainmail – avoid shrinking more than 20 percent. You’ll lose sharpness, and in games where recognition matters, that’s a problem.
There are three golden rules when resizing:
Scale accuracy for modular terrain saves hours of reprinting and sanding. Don’t rely on guesswork – measure and match.
Print smart, and your minis will fit their world like they belong there.
You’ve got your minis ready, and the terrain looks great… until the doorframe clips through your barbarian’s forehead. That’s the kind of detail that shatters immersion in the middle of a session. And it’s avoidable with proper scale accuracy for modular terrain.
Modular terrain is designed to be swapped, stacked, or combined. But if the scale is off even slightly, pieces won’t line up, doors won’t open, and walls will look awkward. This is especially important when printing maps for tactical combat. Your grid should align with your models, and your terrain should match that same logic.
When you’re building out combat zones for a long campaign, consistency matters more than flair. A castle tile set scaled for 28mm miniatures will not work well with towers designed for 32mm RPG models – even if they look good separately. You’ll find inconsistent walkways, unreachable ladders, and elevation issues.
That’s where a good fantasy miniatures scale guide comes in. Take note of the scale used by your favorite creators. Before combining assets, compare stair heights, doorway widths, and floor tile spacing. Print test sections and check how your minis interact with them.
Scale differences in fantasy STL prints often come from creators using different measurement standards. Don’t assume all “28mm” is the same – it’s not.
Knowing your sources and adjusting early will save you from awkward fits during an epic boss battle.
Every adventurer knows that immersion is built on consistency. You can have stunning miniatures and gorgeous terrain, but if they feel like they come from two different worlds, the illusion breaks.
To avoid that, follow these steps for matching assets across your campaign:
And don’t forget: game feel matters. A giant-sized dragon on a too-small base may look cool, but if it doesn’t fit on the map, it’s going to disrupt combat. Similarly, tiny terrain can make your party feel like giants, even if their stats say otherwise.
How to resize your STL for campaign use becomes a ritual. Test, print, adjust, and match. The more attention you pay early, the less you’ll have to fix later.
Let your players lose themselves in the world, not in wondering why the halfling needs to duck to enter a shack.