Painting 3D Printed Fantasy Miniatures: Filament vs Resin Surface Prep

Painting 3D-printed miniatures begins long before the first color is applied. Filament and resin models require different surface preparations to achieve clean results. Learn the right techniques for smoothing, priming, and finishing your prints. Avoid common mistakes and enhance your painting workflow with clear, practical steps tailored to your print material.

How to Prepare Resin vs Filament Miniatures for Painting

Printed minis are not equal. Painting filament vs resin miniatures requires different handling from the very beginning. Surface texture, detail level, and print artifacts all influence how you clean and prep each type.

Resin prints (often made with SLA printers) produce smooth surfaces and sharp details. But those details can be fragile, and excess resin or support marks often need careful attention. Start by:

• Washing in isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher)
• Fully curing with UV light
• Gently trimming support marks without sanding too hard

Filament prints, typically made from PLA or PETG, are tougher but come with more visible layer lines. These need more surface work:

• Remove loose strings and fuzz with a soft brush — you can also use a hair dryer or another stream of warm air to melt away any remaining filaments and threads
• Lightly sand visible surfaces like cloaks, shields, or terrain walls
• Pay special attention to layer lines that might disrupt fine painting later

Both types benefit from a clean, dry surface before priming. If you skip cleaning, even the best primer for 3D printed minis won’t adhere well. Start clean = smoother painting ahead.

Smoothing and Priming 3D Printed RPG Models: Step-by-Step

The smoother your surface, the better your result. For RPG figures, especially, where details matter, it’s worth putting in the time. So, let’s go step-by-step on how to prime 3D printed RPG models and achieve that perfect painting base.

Step 1: Surface smoothing

For filament:

• Sand large areas with 400–800 grit paper; you can also use tools like small files for detailed spots
• Use filler primer or acrylic gesso to even out surfaces
• Apply brush-on sanding putty for bigger models like dragons or statues

This is the core of how to smooth filament before painting, especially important for rounded surfaces like cloaks and faces.

For resin:

• Avoid over-sanding. Use a hobby knife to remove small imperfections.
• If needed, very light sanding on broad areas, but resin can chip easily.

Step 2: Priming

• Apply a spray primer suited to your painting style—use gray or black for darker models, or white if you plan to use speedpaints/contrast paints or bright color schemes
• Keep layers thin. This helps reveal detail instead of burying it
• Allow 24 hours for curing before painting

These steps not only support adhesion but also make your colors richer and more accurate. This is the core of resin surface prep for painting a clean and primed model lets every detail shine.

Choosing the Best Primer for Fantasy Terrain and Figures

Choosing the right primer isn’t just about color; it affects durability, detail, and how paint behaves. So what’s the best primer for 3D printed minis? It depends on the type and scale of your miniature.

For filament miniatures:

• Use filler primers if you still see layer lines
• Matte or satin finish helps paint grip better
• Brands that mention “sandable” are good signs for PLA users

For resin models:

• Go for thin-layer spray primers – too thick and you’ll lose facial features or armor texture
• Light gray or neutral tone helps you spot detail flaws before painting

If you’re working on larger terrain like modular castles or dungeon rooms, look for primers that stick well on large flat surfaces. Choosing the right primer = better adhesion + sharper paintwork.

Avoid glossy finishes during priming, as paints may bead or slide off, especially on curved resin areas. This is especially relevant in how to paint 3D printed terrain and minis, where material textures can be inconsistent.

Key Differences in Surface Prep for PLA, PETG, and Resin

Not all filaments are the same, and neither is resin. Understanding the differences between PLA, PETG, and standard resins will improve your prep work and final results.

PLA (most common filament):

• Easy to sand
• Accepts primer well
• Needs more smoothing due to visible layer lines

PETG (less common but stronger):

• Harder to sand cleanly
• May repel some primers without extra cleaning
• Heat-resistant, but surface smoothing is trickier

Resin (standard photopolymer):

• Smooth but fragile
• Requires IPA wash and post-cure
• Great for tiny details, faces, weapons, and cloaks

Knowing the differences in painting PLA and resin helps avoid surprises. A model that looks great raw might behave differently once you prime it. Remember: filament = more sanding, resin = more cleaning. Adjust your prep method based on the material and scale. It’s a big part of any RPG miniature painting surface tip worth knowing.

Techniques for Painting Small Details on Printed Miniatures

Fine details on 3D printed models can make or break your fantasy characters. After all the prep, your next job is to protect those details while painting. And this process also begins during the preparation stage.

To keep details visible:

• Apply primer in multiple light coats, not one thick layer
• Use angled sprays to get under details like armor trims or robes
• Hold the model 6–8 inches from the spray nozzle to avoid pooling

Filament models often require additional smoothing around detail zones, especially in facial features or fingers. Use precision files if needed. This is one of the lesser-known but crucial filament miniature painting tips for RPG fans.

On resin models, let the material do the work resin captures tiny details well. Just make sure supports don’t damage delicate areas, such as blades or eyes. If they did, a dab of modeling putty can restore the shape before priming.

Proper prep = better paint flow. These painting techniques for fantasy miniatures make it easier to layer, wash, and drybrush small elements without compromising the model’s clarity.

Preparing Miniatures and Terrain for Campaign-Ready Results

Prepping miniatures for gameplay is different than prepping them for display. If your minis will hit the tabletop regularly, durability matters as much as detail.

Terrain in particular gets handled more. For this reason:

• Sand filament terrain well sharp edges can chip primer
• Consider a sealing layer (matte varnish) after painting
• Prime large pieces outdoors if using spray cans

This applies across both FDM and resin prints. For terrain like trees, ruins, or modular dungeons, understanding how to paint 3D printed terrain and minis efficiently helps keep your campaign setup strong.

For character minis:

• Don’t overhandle during painting oils from skin can affect paint
• Use holders or cork mounts to paint comfortably
• Avoid rushing the drying phase between layers

This is where resin post-processing before painting matters most. Skipping curing or rushing support cleanup leads to sticky areas that resist primer and paint. Always let your resin miniatures dry and cure completely.

Prep and patience = long-lasting, campaign-ready models. Whether you’re painting a dragon for the next boss fight or a merchant NPC for a side quest, proper prep helps them survive game night after game night.